Your flight to Campbeltown over the Isle of Arran takes you to the shores of one of Britain’s most evocative peninsulas, Kintyre. Campbeltown, originally Kinlochkilkerran until renamed in the 17th century after Earl of Argyll, Chief of Clan Campbell, once boasted 34 distilleries and almost as many churches. Step back 14 centuries to explore Apostle of Kintyre St Kieren’s Cave at low tide, while during summer visit Campbeltown Heritage Centre in Lorne Street Church; its striped façade explaining its nickname, “tartan kirk”. The 1913 Art Deco cinema, “Wee Picture House” is young compared to the quayside’s 14th-century Campbeltown Cross. Away from the crowds cross the low tide causeway to Island Davarr in Campbeltown Loch, or head ten miles south to Southend for golf and, beyond, isolated Mull of Kintyre’s lighthouse. Explore Kintyre’s Viking east coast or west coast’s Glenbarr Abbey (actually a mansion house). Locals in Campbeltown still look to the sea, even if not for shipbuilding or herring catches as in its Victorian heyday. Shellfish remains a speciality and resurgence in distilling now sees two back in Campbeltown: Glen Scotia and Springbank. |